My last planned bit of BMOW case construction was a front-mounted LCD. This required cutting a hole for the LCD in the faceplate, as well as a gap for the wires to pass through the steel case front. Once again my trusty Dremel tool was put to use. This time I enlisted the help of my daughter to get some action photos, while I cut through the steel. Look at those sparks fly! Yee-ha!!!

I am a manly man, cutting steel! Unfortunately, moments after this photo was taken, the Dremel unexpectedly shut down. At first I thought maybe I’d blown a fuse, but the house outlet still works fine, and there’s no fuse I can find anywhere on the tool. I tried cleaning out the motor brushes, but that’s about all I could think to try. The Dremel manual doesn’t mention anything about what to do when the tool fails to turn on. I guess I killed it. At least I had the cut about 95% finished, and I may be able to finish it off by hand.

Dremel Tool: 2009-2009 R.I.P

The deed is done! Or at least the major parts of it. BMOW now exists as a sturdy pizza box enclosure, with real power and peripheral connectors that can stand up to repeated plugging and unplugging. It’s quite a step up from the bare circuit board with wires dangling everywhere that’s graced my desk for so long. In short, it looks like a real computer now!

A week ago, I wrote here about my adventures fitting the main circuit board into the case. With that done, I still needed to build the power connector, finish the audio daughter board, and create the rear port connector panel. This required a large amount of boring soldering and gluing, plus a bit of interesting design on the audio board. I’d never attempted to build a circuit on a generic PCB panel using soldered wires before, and it didn’t go too well. There must be a trick to neatly soldering up the required connections on the back side, but I didn’t find it. The back of the audio board is a mess, and required a few hours of debugging to find the flaky solder joints, but it all worked fine in the end.

Here’s the rear of the case after installation of the DC power jack (in the space where the AC plug was originally), the VGA video connector, and the new reset button:

And here’s a top view of the same thing, showing the audio board installed, but no other components yet:

The hardest part was the rear port connectors. The headphone jack and volume knob are panel-mount connectors, but the keyboard and USB connectors are PCB-mount, and I didn’t have a PCB to mount them on. I need something to attach all the connectors to, to hold them in the right position relative to the holes in the case, and keep them sturdy enough to withstand the force of repeated pluggings and unpluggings. I ended up mounting the connectors on a piece of wood that was just the right height. The PCB-mount connectors were mounted upside-down on the wood, with the legs facing upward. That means the keyboard and USB connectors are upside-down, relative to how you’d see them on a normal PC. Odd, but not really a problem.

Here’s the finished rear port connector module. From left to right, it’s keyboard, headphone/line, USB, and volume. The connectors all run internally to jacks on the BMOW main board or audio board.

Here’s a close-up of the rear port connector module. There’s lots of hot glue poured over everything:

With everything crammed inside the case, including a small speaker, it’s a tight fit:

With the rear panel ports populated, it begins to look like a recognizable computer. I even found a retro-style volume knob. Who really cares if the USB port is actually labeled “TP”? Those vacant COM1/COM2 ports don’t look very nice, though. Ventillation holes?

At this point, I tried to put the cover on, and discovered that it didn’t fit! What the $@#*&#? I had to get out the Dremel tool once more, to grind down a small metal fin that projects from the inside of the cover down into the case. After grinding it off, there’s only about 0.1 inch of clearance.

The finished product, with cover successfully installed:

Front view. I need to silkscreen a BMOW logo on there somehow:

All this, and it still runs too:

That’s almost it for my hardware plans. I’d like to hook up those three LEDs on the front panel, and I’m probably going to cut an opening in the front to mount a 2-line LCD. Then I plan to tidy up the software a bit, and create a “demo ROM” with a menu of my greatest hits like animating kid photos, Microchess, BASIC, and music players. Then BMOW should be ready for its world tour, or a quiet retirement.

I’m making progress on building BMOW’s case. After more than a year of sitting naked on my desk, it’s finally going to get a proper enclosure: a gutted X-terminal that is just the perfect size… or so I thought. A couple of weeks I ago, I used a Dremel to cut out a divider that partitioned the interior space. Then this past weekend I did the first test-fit. Uh-oh! While the BMOW board did just barely fit inside, the lid wouldn’t fit on with the board in the enclosure. It was actually both too wide and too tall, by just a fraction of an inch in both dimensions. Doh! Here’s what the test fit looked like:

The lid (not shown here) has small tabs that extend into the case, and fit into grooves in the base. These tabs were bumping into the BMOW board when I attempted to close the lid. That’s not surprising, since you can see in the photo that there’s virtually zero extra space horizontally. In fact there’s about 1/16 inch of space to spare on both sides, so I cut the tabs down to that size with the Dremel, and now they just barely squeak through.

I wasn’t out of the woods yet, though. The lid still wouldn’t close, because the board was just a fraction of an inch too tall. Putting a ROM in that green ZIF socket you see in the photo was just barely enough to prevent the lid from closing. After some thought, I decided to solve that problem by using shorter standoffs underneath the board, so it would sit lower in the case. That was easier said then done, however, because the wire-wrap pins on the bottom are about 3/4 of an inch long, so the standoffs need to be taller than that. I found some standoffs that worked, but now those pins came so close to the bottom of the case, that they actually made contact with the jagged remnants of that divider I’d previously removed. I had to go back and grind the divider down to a nub with the Dremel before it all fit.

The next problem I faced was how to anchor the board securely in the case. Drilling mounting holes for the standoffs would work, but I don’t have any way of measuring and drilling the holes accurately enough to match the holes in the board. In the end, I decided to screw the standoffs into the board, then stick the whole thing in the case and hot glue the standoffs to the case’s base. This had “bad idea” written all over it: there was a decent chance I might accidentally melt or glue the the board itself while anchoring the standoffs. That was risky enough, but it gets worse. You can see in the photo that I had good access to the top and side of the board with the glue gun, I couldn’t really reach the bottom side. Unfortunately BMOW has only two mounting holes on the bottom side: bottom-left and bottom-middle (hidden under the cable in the photo). I actually dragged the whole thing down into the basement, and drilled a new mounting hole in the bottom-right of the PCB with everything still mounted on it, and the whole thing in the case. It was a little comical. I covered all but that corner with a towel to protect it from flying metal flakes off the drill, but one mistake could have easily destroyed a year’s work.

Fortunately the surgery went without a hitch, and I got the board nicely mounted in the case. I also ditched the jury-rigged power cable you see in the photo that has caused me so many headaches, and carefully wired up new power connections, this time with a real power switch too! With the new connections, I measure 4.96 volts on the board, instead of the 4.75 or so I used to see with the old hookup.

The hardest part of this job is hopefully behind me now, but there’s still a lot of work to do fashioning new connectors from the BMOW board to the case holes, and building a small off-board audio mixer/amplifier circuit. I need to build new VGA, keyboard, USB, volume, audio, and reset cables, solder them all to the appropriate connectors, and devise some way to mount them all neatly and securely aligned with the holes in the case. Earlier I’d considered building a small custom PCB for this, but I think I’ll probably just do it all by hand. I have a strong suspicion that hot glue will play a role once again!

I’m very pleased to say that after a few false starts, and lots of slow plodding progress, I finally have an audio demo to show off! The AY-3-8913 and related interface circuitry have been integrated into BMOW, and it works flawlessly. I’ve routed the analog voltages for the three voices to an off-board mixer/amplifier circuit, which is currently on a protoboard. Then I grabbed some old chiptunes from an AY emulator, deciphered the basics of the emulator file format, and shoved the resulting raw register data into the AY at 50Hz. This is the result.

The video demos a three minute chiptune, which just barely squeezed into 64K. It also shows off my desk workspace. That’s the PC monitor on the right displaying the BMOW bootloader UI, and the BMOW system monitor on the left. Keep your eyes peeled for the logic analyzer, Arduinos, and some other goodies mentioned in long-ago BMOW posts too.

I finished wiring the audio circuitry for BMOW yesterday, which marks the end of wiring for BMOW… for version 1 at least! I took the opportunity to reflect on my wire-wrapping odyssey, and took a bazillion photos of the namesake Big Mess o’ Wires before it disappears forever into an opaque case. It’s really quite a sight. There are 1253 wires with 2506 individually-wrapped connections, and I’ve got every one logged in a spreadsheet.

At first I found the slow pace of wire-wrapping to be a chore, but eventually I came to enjoy it. Once I get going, I can wrap about 25 wires in an hour. It’s almost like a form of meditation. Despite how long it takes to wrap, the wire-wrapping hasn’t really impacted my overall rate of progress. Design, debugging, and general procrastination consume the most time, and wrapping is just a small part of the total.

All this craziness is built on a 12×7 inch Augat wire-wrap board with 2832 gold wire-wrap posts, which I purchased from eBay for $50. I started wondering about all that gold… are those posts solid gold, or gold-plated? I broke one once, and its cross-section appears to be solid gold. I know the boards sold for astronomical prices when new, and the name Augat suggests the atomic symbol for gold. The board was even listed in the precious metals section of eBay, rather than anywhere electronics-related. With a postage scale and a little figuring, I estimated the total weight of all the pins at about 10 ounces. Assuming it’s solid 10 karat gold, that’s 4.1 ounces of pure gold, with a value of about $3700 at today’s gold price. Too good to be true?

In the photos, I tried to capture the feeling of order amid chaos. Click any image to see the full-size version. What I found remarkable is just how dense the wiring is in many parts. The wide shots show off the surface wiring, but the close-ups really get into some interesting rats’ nests. In the densest channels, those wires are stacked at least 10 deep! It’s hard to believe it actually implements a computer.

Behold the insanity that is Big Mess o’ Wires!

A while ago I purchased an old X-terminal and ripped out the guts, with the intention of using the case for BMOW. Upon opening it up, I discovered that the interior was partitioned into two parts by a steel divider welded to the base. The logic board was on one half and the power supply on another. Unfortunately BMOW needs the entire space in order to fit its oversized board.

Enter the Dremel tool. I got a Dremel and assortment of attachments for Christmas, but didn’t have a chance to try it until today. My plan was to simply cut the divider off, requiring about a 12 inch cut. The divider is made of 1/32 inch steel. Would the Dremel cut it? What kind of cutting attachment should I use? Would I slice off a thumb? I really had no idea how to use a Dremel, but a couple of the included attachments looked like cutting wheels, so I gave them a try. It took me about an hour and a half to make the 12 inch cut, and it looks pretty darn ragged, but the operation was a success. Sparks were flying everywhere… it was quite a sight! I ate up two entire cutting wheels, though, so I’m guessing a wheel made specifically for cutting steel would be better next time.

Here’s my handiwork. You can see the stump of the divider running from the case’s front to its back, about two-thirds of the way from left to right.

I had hoped to cut a large hole in the case lid, and cover it with a piece of plexiglass, to make a window where people could peer in and see BMOW’s guts. Given how this cut turned out, though, I think I’m going to abandon that idea. It would probably take me several hours to make a hole that large, and it would end up looked pretty ragged and ugly. Instead, I’ll just pop the lid when I do demos!